McKay Report Jan 17

Photos Here (with Lise Beaulieu's)

More waterton stuff bit of a
update not much new really put trying to keep the place in the
limelight. Feel like the maytag repair man down here sometimes.

Waterton Jan 17th 2005

Traffic for ice climbers has really picked up in the park this last
week. Plenty of Yanks coming up and taking advantage of the uncrowded
climbing areas. These warm temps are going to play havic of those south
facing climbs on the Cameron Lake road. You have about a week I would
say to do the "experts" climbs.

Experts Choice: In great shape. the center pillar is as good as it
gets. Still water around but can get by without getting wet. The left
side is fat and happy and a great climb with unbelievable views.

Compound Gullies: all of these climbs are fully formed and perhaps the
best moderate climbs in the province. You can pick your grade up to 3+.
Want get that reluctant spouse out and have a good time this is the
place.

Iris Dream -mt Vimy: firs climbed by public safety wardens Brent
Kozachenko and Edwin Knox. This puppy is waiting for a second ascent. I
don't believe wardens can climb grade 4+ so somebody get out there and
downgrade that puppy for me.

Swedish Plumbing: -- swedes is a sweet little moderate that begs to be
climbed located just across from Q&D and in the canyon. (400 meters
down is a cool little mixed climb waiting to be done. few pins and cams
perhaps 3 pitchs)

Quick and Dirty; This climb is fat and happy also. The climbs to the
left are in except for the so called grade 6? See photo of pitch above
which you can see from the road. looks like a nice addition as the days
get longer.

Buchanan ridge : These climbs are in but snow covered at the moment.
The wind will take care of that right shortly and they will be blue ice
in a couple days. These are first ascents - well a couple are anyhow.

Avy Conditions:--The weather has finally broken and warmer temps have
arrived. As usual things means that the winds are back "and baby are
they ever back". Because of the amount of snow available for transport
the avalanche hazard in the park has risen considerably. wind slabs are
stiffning up and a lot of areas have reported facetting above the
December 12th rain crust. It should be noted that this crust has
weakened considerably over the last 10 days and can no longer be
counted on to be supportive. (I would rate the crust somewhere between
pellet gun and lightly charged 22 Cal.) This of course is a result of
the extended cold spell. Poor bonding is reported in the shallow areas
where deposited snow is lying over ice. Ice climbers and skiers may
want to be REAL careful over the next few days.
It was 0 degrees at 6 am this morning. hopefully temps cool and we do
not get rani with this next moisture band. The winds are 100 km/hr as I
type this.

Saw some illegal guiding going on in the park yesterday. remember folks
there are no guides allowed in the park so you never have to worry
about yamnuska coming in and putting a rope up on everything. If you do
see a guide catch his name and report it to wardens @403 859 5180 there
should be at least one mercenary free zone in the province.

Thanks for reading this far
Joe Mckay

www.mountainguide.com. ............If you owe me money pay up! If I
owe you money, well.... have a nice day.

My calendar
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