Consolation
prize: Is just exactly that. But under the present climbing conditions may
make a reasonable workout. If it was up to me I would rename this “too tough
for Black Cloud”
Update from Joe McKay, November
23 (and earlier) '02
There are a lot of people on this list that
may want off don’t worry, it won’t be coming at you everyday. I have a
pretty thick bark so don’t feel like you are going to damage that soft inner
core by asking to be removed, I will simply take your email and pass it on to a
search engine spam artist.. To any guides I would appreciate if you took me off
of the informalex as I can not guarantee that I will not share information with
the general public. Thanks in advance for that. Well yesterday I insulted just
about everybody I could think of so I think I will let you off easy today.
Consolation
prize: Is just exactly that. But under the present climbing conditions may
make a reasonable workout. If it was up to me I would rename this “too tough
for Black Cloud”
Echo Madness: Great climb, even
greater position. I have a client that I may take in there. I think that my big
concern at the moment would be a weak bond between the old snow and new snow
that may have blown in from the Columbia Icefields. It has been warm and my gut
feeling is that this is a good time to to go. Do a few hand tests and don’t
get on anything supportive if at all suspect.
--
Keep your stick on the ice and your crampons sharp.
Joe McKay
Joe McKay, November 23 '02
Rogers Pass: Hey skiers, I usually don’t cater to your type as I barley consider you a life form but the pass sucks at the moment so don’t even think about. Rain to mountain top!!!
Ice climbing
Up North
It used to be that when the skiing sucked at this time of year the ice climbing was steep and prime. Guess we had better listen to old crooked mouth and sign the koyoto deal before it is to late. This warm spell has been hitting hard on the climbs up north. The sun has melted away a lot of stuff that was pretty good a week ago. I won’t go into a lot of detail other than to say that Shades of Beauty is about the best one out there.
Down South
I saw a guy at mountain magic last week that was in pretty bad shape. “Guess what happened” say’s he “Bobbing for French fries” says I “Nope” says he... “Couple of Tony Soprano’s boys hold your face down on a belt sander” says I ... “Close” says he “took a whipper on my bike while going to climb the Volcano” “That was my third guess” says I
The road into the professors has melted of snow, though it may be slick in the morning. If you are riding in be careful,
Bourgou Right hand.: Yeh, I know I spelt it wrong but if it bothers you oh well. I am stressed for time I have a flight to Hong Kong in a hour twenty. I heard that it is in from a reasonable source, that being PA. This is one of the best routes in the whole range and if you haven’t done it your missing out. With the weather the last day or so I have to wonder but that is what I heard. Somebody phone me up, I think I can get away Sunday to climb it Pleease
Bourgue Left: Another great route that is suppose to be touching down. I wouldn’t send my worst enemy to that one at the moment. Hold on... “Hey” are there any ACMG examiners out there on this list, ...guys/gals I hear that left hand is in great shape and a must do in the present condition... Get out there and hone up for the up coming ice exam... You normal people if you ever get to the top do not rap off the bolts and rib its on the boulder to the climbers right.. It would be Darwinism at its finest and your just to stupid to breed into the general population build a balaclave... Hey.. exam team those bolts are great shape I use them all the time, why waste the time and money, get down, get out collect your $350 ... Top of the second pitch there are bolts off to the right (about 5 meters if I remember correctly) that provide better shelter then pinning yourself to the bolts in the middle of the drainage..you may survive a avalanche. Course if you are there under those conditions see Darwinism
Beneath the Volcano: In real good shape at the moment with a funky mushroom on the crux pitch. Go up the climbers left of the drainage. In the old days we used to climb professors then walk over and climb the volcanoes. And that was with Stubias and chinaurd screws. I know what your thinking and your right we was “BAAAAD” These days I chuck about $500 hundred dollars a year at mountain magic to upgrade the technology just to sketch my way up Cascade. Now I have to go LEASHLESS will it never end.
Photos: The pictures say a lot so just do a comparison from the last batch. These photo’s were taken today 11/22/02 from either a mig (men in Green) or a wiu (Women in Uniform) I am not sure which.
Kitty Hawk Upper
Lower Polar Circus
Upper Polar Circus
Slipstream 11/22/02
Upper Polar Circus 11/22/02
