Nov. 29 Joe McKay

Bourgueas: Yeh right! Yeh left!   If there was Ice was there it is gone now. Warm temps and south face have taken their toll.

Urs Hole: On the approach I was thinking that I had seen anorexic whippets with more meat on their bones than this thing. Turns out the ice was of good quality over all but be warned that some of the chalk stones mid way up have real funky sections. The climbing is not hard but it takes good judgement on that kind of ice quality to climb safely. There is no pro  and the landings are awkward. I even pulled a cross tool move to top out on a thin bit. Fell in up to my thighs while walking in the alley, over all great fun , and a good exercise in funky crampon work, bridging the walls to get by the  trap doors. Climbed the easy left variant at the end back grade 4/5 pitch is not in but a couple cold days would change that. If you climb solid 4 you will have fun if you sketch at that grade you might get hurt as the ice will not take a lot of abuse.

Update from Joe McKay, November 26 '02: Accidents, Stanley Headwall,  Hafner, etc.

Hi folks

Another great day out there. Light wind and temps hovering around around zero.
Unfortunately one of the National Parks Public Safety Wardens was hurt ice climbing yesterday. I hate it when something happens to one of these guy’s/gal’s, it doesn’t happen often a testament to the skill level considering the amount of time spent in the field. It is the wardens service that provided the last batch of photo’s. The unfortunate fellow came off on the second pitch of Shades of Beauty,. Details are unclear and I am sure will come out when they are ready to be released. However significant damage was done to the ankle region. The belayer was unhurt but it is known for the belayer to be spun around  if facing in the wrong directions. It should be noted that crampons do not have swivels between them and the boot. In the case of the guy coming off of Louise Falls a couple years ago. The leader takes 30 feet of air and walks away unscathed however the belayer was carted away with a tib fib spiral fracture.
          If you don’t think it can happen to you it probably will. In the game of ice “expect the unexpected’ . I can remember working with a guide at tangle several years ago. The dude had just returned from K2 and I suspect that he was a bit complacent. It was only tangle and he was soloing up to hang ropes. The next thing I know I see him flying down the falls he hits a ledge bounces over my head and fortunately lands in a snow bank. Probably was the only year in the last ten that had snow deep enough to absorb any energy. He walked hobbled away a few inches shorter but otherwise unscathed.
            Last year I was guiding Polar Circus on the shortest day of the year. When there is work to be done, you eat on the run, go without sleep and change your horses often. I am on the bench at the base of the last two pitch’s. I am hustling things along. The usual short cuts. I start bouldering up while buddy gets his shit together. Once I hit the real climbing I stop and hook this mushroom. I am waiting for the belay and for some strange reason I forgot or something that the placement was only a hook. I had to be twenty feet off the deck. I had enough time to think this is going to hurt and enough sense or dumb luck to pitch myself. I land on this 2 inch ice crust which has about three feet of snow under it. The perfect crash pad. I was completely unhurt, of course I had to save face so I picked myself up walked over to the client reached into his pack grabbed the gaitor aid and said “It’s quicker than down climbing” (like I do it every day) then booted off and finished the route.
The point is that no matter how much experience you have or think you have “accidents can happen” Cover your ass put gear in when it’s convenient and remember that even short falls can have serious consequences. Don’t count on being lucky. I have spoken, from where the sun now stands I shall speak no more.

Johnston's Canyon: I head in to Johnston's with a client today and the bloody thing is closed for repairs. If you are thinking of going in there be sure to phone the wardens office and check on the closure. There is a patch of ice that is pretty good just before the first bridges that most ignore. It is a decent place for a first day school and anchor sessions. That would still be usable and your sure to have it to yourself.

Linda Ice Nine: This climb is in great shape at the moment. Plenty of ice for all skill levels. Closed to commercial use on Saturday unfortunately, as I am going to be there.

Louise Falls: the pillar is down and of course has had a bit of traffic. Not by me mind you I think it be a while yet before I hop on that one. Pouring rain down it at the moment. You’d have to be masochistic or from the states to tackle it in it’s present condition.

Haffner Creek: those of you who just took up climbing in the last year or so will never know what that place used to look like. Going to have to hang out some closed for repair signs on some of those Pillars as they get the shit kicked out of them before they have half a chance to defend myself. Pretty dry year over all in there with not a lot of water running.

Stanley Head  Wall: Looks a bit thin but you tell me.