Alpine Spam # 7
December 15th 2002
How to build an Abalakov
(without your back country abortion kit)
This is a trick that I find myself doing more and more
as I tend to forget to bring all the bells and whistles. At one point in time I
never went anywhere without my bent up clothes hanger wire, of course I was
stealing cars full time then and it seemed only prudent to be prepared should
opportunity come knocking. These days I am much less likely to be caring
anything specific for retrieving Abalakov ( ul bee bac en off ) threads.
This is especially true in the summer alpine environment.
This technique really doesn’t require any special
skill. I am not going to provide a whole micro detail plan here. As I see it
there is only one way that this can be done with the equipment I am allowing.
Materials needed: One Sewn sling (spectra or whatever) 1 meter or more of
7mm perlon cord.
- Drill Abalakov so that you get a near perfect
intersection. Over drill the second hole so that the core is at least 2 or 3
cm’s past the intersection.
- Fold sewn sling in two.
- Push the loop down one hole stop when the tip of the
loop just gets past the intersection. Be sure that your sling is facing the
right way. It is possible to turn it slightly once you have inserted sewn
sling.
- Take 7mm perlon and push it down the second
hole so that it not only intersects the sewn sling but goes beyond into the
over drilled part.
- Tug slightly on the sewn sling (like you have a fish
nibbling on a bait hook) Be sure to feed a little extra 7 mil into the
second core to reduce resistance.
- Pull on the sewn sling “like you were pulling a
skier off your sister” The end of the 7 mil should come flying out.
This is not near so bad as it sounds as far as finicky fishing goes. I have only
done this with sewn sling and Perlon. It may be possible to do this with
different material.
Urs Hole: This classic is in as good as shape as it gets. The alley has a
good floor and the grade 3 pitch at the pack is well formed. The grade 4+ pitch
is wet and steep and shows no sign of travel. This climb has a huge avalanche
bowl so choose your time wisely. Best to avoid after any significant
accumulation. Definitely a early season classic.
Haffner Creek: still water running off the walls but a dry year over all.
Always a good show when I go there. One minute I get to see Rob Owens hang
upside down suspended from a single spur (while on lead). 10 minutes later this
young fellow in his early 20’s takes a whipper, pulls a screw and hits
the deck just as the second screw catches sparing him the full impact force that
mother nature had set up for him. Fortunately he walked away.
Rogans Gully: Good to very good
