Did a variation to “A Day After Les Vacances de Monseur Hulot” a couple days ago with Brian Webster. We approached the route expecting a very serious endeavor but were surprised to see a whole lot of ice. As follows…
Another jour Variant, WI5, M6, 200M, Rob Owens and Brian Webster, Nov 04
From the traverse ledge
Pitch 1 (pitch 2 in Sean I’s Book) Climb iced the iced up rock groove ~35 meters, M4. Rock gear and stubbies. Pins and cams for belay.
Pitch 2 55m all the way to upper ledge. WI4r Great ice but a little runout due to thin ice. Awesome pitch of all ice just left of original dry M7 corner.
Pitch 3 20m horizontal WI3 traverse past “Nightmare…” to the base of the Chimney.
Pitch 4 55m M6, WI4. Climb the dry chimney for 45meters to ledge. Continue up 10 meters of ice to sheltered belay on the right of the steeper ice curtain.
Pitch 5 50meters of steep funky WI5 ice to another sheltered belay.
Pitch 6 30mters of WI 5 to top of route.
Very much different than what the first two ascents saw but nevertheless Awesome!!!