I L L U M I N A T I M 11+ / WI 6+, Albert Leichtfried and Dougal Tavener, January 2006
"The hardest multipitch-mixed/iceroute of the world"
WG Note: The "official route description is below, Albert sent me the following as an email, I thought it conveyed the route's feeling well; "Just back from the illuminati trip. I could send this monster yesterday! I'm sure, I never had to put more effort on a climb ever before. It's a mixture of hard mixed and very serious ice. I friend of mine was with us and filmed the whole thing. The first pitch was a hard fight on my first rp. (M11-), on second pitch I fell four times and was sure I'm done for today. On the next try I was really tired, but I climbed smooth through the rock part, on the icicle I was very close to fall, I was sooooo pumped! (M11+, no present). 3rd is nice and not too hard, a bit sketchy over the curtain (M8-). 4th is a very nice ice-pitch (WI4). And then 5th pitch - because of the good ice in the 4th I thougt, I would be able to run it up quickly - nooo way. It was maybe my hardest singe ice-pitch I've ever done. Shit ice (pipe over pipe and 20cm of slobber on top, because of the burning morning-sun), I nearly was freaking out and wanted to climb back on half way up, but then I placed two good screws and kept on climbing to the top with no more thinking... I don't want to climb this pitch again! (WI6+), abseiling in the darkness.
I'm so happy now!"
Route description
A friend of mine told me about an ice climbing spot near Wolkenstein, Italy. “It’s an unknown place with some good lines, we have to go there”, he said. First I did not want to, because I was really tired after the last competition, but he was so excited about this place – so I thought, okay - let’s have a look!
On the next day we did not climb at all. We hiked for three hours to find out that our target icefall has not formed to the ground. But this day was at least successful in another way - I saw this amazing line on the other side of the valley. As soon as we came home my only thought was to tell everybody about this beautiful, incredible big ice-formation with this massive roof below it, situated in a dream-landscape and getting direct sunlight in the morning. Some days later, I came back with my drill and Dougal Tavener, a motivated guy from North Wales, who came to Innsbruck this winter for ice-climbing. When I stood on the bottom of this wall, I could see the incredible dimensions of this line for the first time. About 60 meters altitude difference to the curtain and more than 20 meters overhanging – a huge roof. I began to bolt to route on lead from the ground. After the first day we reached, after 22 placed bolts, the level of the biggest icicle from the curtain – still 15 meters missing. On the next day, it was quite easy to reach the curtain and the route was ready for the first free climbing attempts.
One week later, on the 24. January 2006, I felt recuperated enough to have a go on the route. Dougal Tavener was accompanying again and I want to say thanks a lot for his untiring belaying work.
The first pitch went surprisingly well. I could climb it straight away without falling; even though I was very close to falling more than one time. I had a good feeling after this pitch, because I thought the 2nd pitch would be easier. I should be mistaken on this day for several times. On the 2nd pitch I fell four times and I was close to abseil, because my power was gone. I decided to do one last try. I climbed smooth trough the rock part on to the icicle. There, I was so pumped I had to fight very hard to reach the belay. But there were still three pitches left. I rested shortly and climbed the pitch over curtain. I was doing well again, also the first pure ice pitch was a pleasure to climb. I thought that would be done easily now – climb this pillar fast and that’s it. I was totally wrong again. This last 50m-pitch, on a free standing pillar with steep ice was due to the very poor ice-quality a real nightmare. In the middle of the pillar I nearly freaked out. I didn’t want to go further, protection was more than dubious. But going down would have been even worse, so I kept on climbing and luckily I found good ice to place two good screws and climbed to the top.
Completely frozen to the marrow, absolutely exploited, but still very happy we abseiled to the ground in the darkness.
I L L U M I N A T I - facts:
Place: Langental (Val Lungo) near Wolkenstein
Altitude: around 2000m
Exposition: Southeast
Approach: On the left side of the valley, 10min after parking - walk up near a rock cave the grassy hill, 1 hour
Route setup: Albert Leichtfried & Dougal Tavener on 14. and 15. January 2006
First RP: Albert Leichtfried on 24. January 2006, all pitches on lead
Best time: December, January
Gear: 12 quickdraws, full waterfall-gear
Length: about 165 Meters of climbing
Abseiling: 3x50m on the right side, lower part along a via ferrata
Keep in mind: This route is a serious alpine undertaking, retreat is almost not possible. The upper part in the ice should be climbed only on cold days in the shade or on cloud-covered days. During climbing the curtain you have to make sure, that your rope is not running below the curtain.
Grading:
The route was climbed in „reloaded“-style without spurs. Grading and a free ascent apply to this style only.
1. SL.: M 11- 30m, 12m overhanging endurance, crux at the upper part
2. SL.: M 11+ 25m, 10m overhanging demanding, hard mixed-climbing
3. SL.: M 8- 30m, 3m overhanging nice, over the curtain
4. SL.: WI 4 30m, vertical parts perfect ice, easy going
5. SL.: WI 6+ 50m, vertical free-standing pillar with very poor
Ice quality
I L L U M I N A T I – Topo: