2003 New Field Routes

"Untwisted" M5 R WI 4 120m.  P 1 follows the first pitch of Twisted to an ice screw belay below a roof (WI 3) 20m.  P 2 moves left for about 8 meters on a snow ledge, then up a thin ice slab to a crack.  Up the crack past two fixed pitons to more thin ice and a rock belay in good quartzite on the halfway ledge (M5 R) 40m.  P 3 a few rock moves and excellent protection lead to an ice dagger and fat ice to the top (WI 4) 60m.  Rappel on V-threads. 
Cams to 2", nuts, a few knifeblades, screws, stubbies
F.A.:  Rich Marshall, Abby Watkins
 
- "Glen Morangie" M6 WI 5 120m.  P1 same as Untwisted.  P2 moves left and up verglace, through an overlap onto more verglace to a roof, step left at roof (fixed piton) to more verglace and the halfway ledge (screw belay) - M6 45m.
P3 goes up thin ice and steep pillars to the top - WI 5 55m.
Standard mixed rack to 2 inches.
F.A.:  Rene Cote, Jon Walsh
 
- "Daggermeister" M7 20m.  A fun and well protected route on big free hanging dagger located on the cliff below and right of "Homebrew".  Climb  a small icicle, fire a six foot horizontal roof to gain the dagger (total of 4 bolts), then steep technical ice to the a bolted anchor above.  There is also a single bolt belay anchor.  Lots of Avy hazard in this gully so be aware of snow conditions.
F.A.:  Jeff Relph, Jon Walsh
  
Cheers and enjoy!