Rhamnusia, Stanley Headwall, M8 WI6, 160m, FA Sean Isaac and Shawn Huisman, April 2006
 
Rack: 2 - 60m ropes, Camalots #.1 to #3, Stoppers, Ice screws including 1 - 10cm and a few 13cm. no pins required. 3 bomber angles are fixed on P1 and the rest is either sinker gear or bolts.
 
P1) The Trad Pitch M7, 30m Climb a low-angled, iced-up chimney. At the top of the chimney clipped a fixed angle then step right to a steep splitter crack system up a black stippled corner.  Pick slots and torques climb this aesthetic feature to a ledge and 2-bolt belay. A 2nd fixed angle is near the bottom of the corner and a 3rd at the top before the snowy exit groove. Note: Another unexplored option from the top of the chimney is to climb straight up the left-facing corner then move left around the roof to an iced-up groove. Either way will get you to the same place.
 
P2) The Stubby Pitch M5 WI5, 30m Climb a slab past 2 bolts to the ice smear. At the roof clip another bolt then pull onto the vertical sheep of featureless ice. Belay on the snow ledge at 2-bolts. 13-cm screws required for this pitch.
 
P3) The Tunnel Pitch M3, 35m Trudge up the snow ledge and enter the tunnel formed by ice mushrooms. A fun, easy chimney in the back ice vein deposits you at a ledge on the right and 2-bolt anchor. #3 Camalot (and maybe a stubby) is the only piece you need for this pitch. The cam fits perfectly under the roof in the chimney.
 
P4) The Loose Pitch M8, 25m Step beck left to the ice vein then clip the first of 12 bolts. Slightly overhanging drytooling gains a 2-bolt anchor in an ice cave behind the upper pillar. This pitch has lots of creaky holds but is well protected.
 
P5) The Ice Pitch WI6, 35m Slog up the steep blue pillar to the top. Belay off of ice screws.
 
Descent: Rappel from V-thread then from 2-bolt ring anchors. A couple leaver biners were left on bolts on P4 to facilitate getting back to the belay. The other option is to rappel straight from the top of P4 to the top of P2.

Other New Stanley Rigs: If anyone is still psyched for drytooling, Louis, Joe and I sent a couple new mixed rigs at the Thriller Cave at the end of Stanley this season as well. Miracle Filler (M9) starts at the same first bolt as Miller Swiller but goes straight up. The other is Caterpillar (M10) located just left which offers awesome endurance climbing for 30m up a 120 degree wall.

WG--for more info check www.seanisaac.com